Ciabatta picnic loaf with farmhouse cheese

Serves 6

There are many variations of this deliciously moist picnic loaf.  Because it is jam-packed with scrummy filling, it is seriously messy to eat, which makes it perfect for outdoors.

Although sun-dried tomatoes are rather – well- passé, they still impart a very special flavour to robust dishes such as this.  If you cannot find sun-dried tomatoes in extra virgin olive oil, then do not use the oil from the jar: rather, use extra virgin olive oil.

For the cheese, I like to use  Inverloch Old Smokey Gigha

Remember to prepare the loaf on the eve of your picnic to give the flavours time to merge overnight in the fridge.

Ingredients

1 ciabatta loaf

1 x 280g jar of sun-dried tomatoes in extra virgin olive oil

3 heaped tablespoons of pesto (red or green)

50g/1 ¾ oz rocket

1 extra large tomato, thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

100g/3 ½ oz quality salami, thinly sliced

150/5 ½ oz Inverloch Old Smokey Gigha

Method

Cut the loaf in half lengthways and remove about 2 tablespoons of the soft bread inside, to leave more room for the filling.  Place both halves side by side on a board.

If you have been able to find sun-dried tomatoes in extra virgin olive oil, strain off 2 tablespoons oil from the jar; otherwise, use a regular extra virgin olive oil.  Drizzle the oil over one half of the loaf, and spread the pesto over the other half.  Pile the rocket on top of the pesto and squish down.  Place the tomato slices on top and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove about half the sun-dried tomatoes from the jar, and chop roughly; then place on top of the tomato slices.  Cover with salami.

Remove the rind from the cheese then slice the cheese thinly and add to the pile.  Place the other half of the ciabatta on the top and clamp the two halves together.  Tuck in any bits of filling that are trying to escape.  Tightly wrap the ciabatta in double foil, then in clingfilm.  Place the parcel in the salad drawer of your fridge with a heavy weight, such as cartons of juice, on top.  Next day, take the loaf to your picnic and cut it with a very sharp knife.

Winter pea, ham and mustard soup

Serves 5- 6

This is a wonderfully warming wintry soup, at once thick and comforting.  The original idea comes from the time I spent in the north of Finland where, every Thursday, the Finns eat thick pea and mustard soup and pancakes (oven-baked pancake, rather like a sweet Yorkshire pudding) for lunch.  This soup, with only four ingredients, couldn’t be simpler yet it is absolutely delicious on a cold winter day.

Ask your butcher whether the ham hock requires overnight soaking – some are saltier than other; if in doubt, soak for several hours in cold water.

Ingredients

350g/12 oz dried green split peas

1 ham hock

1 large onion,peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Soak the peas overnight.

Rinse the peas and place then in a large saucepan with the ham hock, onion and mustard.  Pour in 1 litre/1 3/3 pints boiling water and plenty of pepper.  Cover and bring to the boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for about 50 minutes.

Remove the ham from the pan and drain over a sieve.  Once cool enough to handle, cut off chunks of the meat with a sharp knife, and reserve.

Whiz the soup with a hand-held blender (or in a liquidiser) and add salt to taste.  Add the chunks of ham to the soup and reheat gently.  Serve in warm bowls with an extra dollop of mustard if you like.

Butter bean and rosemary soup with Mull of Kintyre cheese

Serves 6

Traditionally, butter beans are often used in the Scottish kitchen – both in soups and as a vegetable beside a plate of everyday mince and tatties.  This soup is a beautifully flavoured bean soup topped with some grated Scottish Cheddar-style cheese.  I puree only about half the beans: this gives a natural thickness to the soup but leaves some whole beans for texture.

This is the sort of soup that will put hairs on your chest… or at least warm you up on a cold day out on the hills.

Ingredients

350g/12 oz dried butter beans

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1.2 litres/2 pints hot chicken stock

2 thick sprigs of rosemary

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g/1 ¾ oz Mull of Kintyre cheese, coarsely grated, to serve

Extra virgin olive oil, to serve

Method

Soak the beans overnight, then drain and rinse.  Heath the olive oil in a saucepan and gently fry the onion and garlic for 10 minutes.  Then add the beans, hot stock and rosemary sprigs and season with black pepper (but no salt yet).  Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for about 1 hour or until the beans are tender.

Remove the rosemary (and try to extract any leaves which may have dropped off).  Using a hand-held electric blender, puree about half the soup, ensuring that some beans are left whole.  Now add salt – and more pepper, if necessary – according to taste.

To serve, ladle the soup into warm bowls, and top each bowl with some of the cheese and a drizzle of the oil.

Scottish Venison Bridies

Makes 4

The smell of these bridies fills the house with fabulous aromas that not only make you want to stop everything and devour one minute it has finished cooking, you also want to bless the person that invented the bridie.

There are various tales about the etymology of the word, from the story that they were baked for bridies on their wedding day to the slightly more plausible tale of one Margaret Bridie of Glamis who sold horseshoe-shaped meat pies in Forfar market.  The horseshoe shape (they are not half moons like the cornish pastie) meant they became a lucky symbol, served at weddings and christenings. Whatever historical significance, the forfar bridie – to my mind- is a thing of glory, if properly executed, and I reckon some of the best are from James McLaren & Sons, bakers in Forfar, where I learned the famous dunting and nicking’ techniques.

The venison bridie is equally delicious and mouth-watering. Enjoy with a glass of red wine and a salad, both of which are, of course untraditional accompaniments.

Ingredients

For the pastry:-

250g/9 oz strong white flour

75g/2 ¾ oz plain flour

½ teaspoon salt

175g/6 oz unsalted butter, cubed

About 3 tablespoons cold water

For the filling:-

500g/1 lb 2 oz venison, coarsely minced (usually taken from the shin)

75g/2 ¾ oz beef suet, grated

1 small onion, peeled and finely grated

1 heaped tablespoon freshly chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

For the pastry, sift the flours and salt into a food processor. Add the butter and process until it is incorporated.  Add just enough of the water to bind it to a stiff dough.  Gather the dough in your hands, wrap it in clingfilm and chill for at least 1 hour.

For the filling, mix the venison, suet, onion and parsley and season well with salt and pepper.

Divide the pastry into four and roll each piece into an oval.  Divide the filling into four and spoon it onto the top half of each pastry oval, leaving a border round the edges.

Dampen the edges into a neat horseshoe shape.  Now ‘dunt’ ad ‘nick’ by pressing down the edges to seal them and crimping right round to give a nicely finished look.  Using a sharp knife, prick a small hole in the top of each bridie; this allows the steam to escape.  Place the bridies on a lightly buttered baking tray and chill for an hour or so.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.

Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until golden brown.  Serve the bridies warm, not hot.

Smoked Haddock souffles with herb oil

Serves 4 as a main course, 8 as starter

These are really handy little souffles to have tucked away in your freezer for when you find yourself – as often I do – with a houseful of guests and not wanting to spend hours in the kitchen cooking while missing out not only on pre-prandial drinks but also on any pertinent gossip.  For the herb oil, a mixture of any of following is good: parsley, rocket, basil.

You will need 8 regular-sized ramekins (150ml/5 fl oz capacity), well buttered.

Ingredients

500g/1 lb 2 oz undyed smoked haddock fillets

350ml/12 fl oz full-fat milk

40g/1 ½ oz butter

40g/1 ½ oz plain flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

40g/1 ½ oz freshly grated Parmesan

4 large free-range eggs, separated

For the Herb Oil:-

25g/1 oz fresh herbs (see above)

About 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Dash of lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Method

Place the fish in a pan with the milk and bring slowly to the boil.  After simmering for 2 minutes, remove it from the heat, cover and leave for about 30 minutes, then drain over a sieve, reserving the liquid.

Melt the butter in a pan and add the flour, stirring well.  Cook for about 1 minute, then gradually add the flavoured milk and cook, whisking or stirring constantly, over a medium heat for about 3 minutes until thick.  Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the Parmesan and then the egg yolks, one at a time.

Flake the fish into a large chunks, being careful to remove any bones, and add to the mixture.

Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Carefully fold into the fish mixture one large spoonful at a time.  Divide the mixture between the 8 buttered ramekins (see above) and wipe the rims clean (spillage will inhibit even rising).  Wrap in clingfilm and freeze just as soon as possible although you may have to wait for a minute or two for them to cool.

Preheat the over to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.

The herb oil is best made on the day you are going to eat the soufflés.  Process the herbs with the oil in a small blender.  Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

Shortly before you are ready to eat, remove the clingfilm and place the ramekins on a baking sheet and cook them, still frozen, in the preheated over for 25-30 minutes until they puffed up and golden brown.  Break open the souffles with a teaspoon, spoon in some herb oil and serve at once.

Inverawe Smoked Etive Trout Hash

Serves 6

Although hot-smoked trout would also do this delicious breakfast dish, Inverawe cold-smoked Loch Etive trout (which resembles smoked salmon) is my favourite.  As it is added shortly before serving, it only heats through and does not cook therefore retains its distinctive flavour.

Instead of parsnips, you could use all potatoes if you prefer.

Ingredients

500g/1 lb 2 oz large potatoes, peeled

250g/9 oz parsnips, peeled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

25g/1 oz butter

1 large onion, peeled and sliced

250-300g/9-10 ½ cold-smoked trout, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons freshly chopped dill or parsley

Method

Cook the potatoes and parsnips whole in boiling salted water until just tender (about 15 minutes).  Drain well, allow to cool a little, then cut into large dice.

In a large, heavy frying pan, heat the oil and butter, and then fry the onion for 5 minutes until soft.  Add the potatoes and parsnips and fry over a medium heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture forms crusted, golden edges.  Season well with salt and pepper.

Stir in the smoked trout and dill or parsley and continue to cook for a further 4-5 minutes or until heated through.  Check the seasoning and serve hot.

Scrambled Eggs with Inverawe Smoked Salmon,

Serves 2

For a truly  special morning treat, make this for breakfast or brunch.  You can add more or less smoked salmon depending on how much you can afford, but do not add any more chervil since its delicate aniseed flavour should not overpower the eggs.  Smoked salmon pieces are fine and are also cheaper.

Cold Smoked trout is also good for this dish – or fresh crab meat, and instead of chervil, you could add dill or snipped chives for a change.

Serve on thick wholemeal toast or toasted bagels.  If you make it with crab instead of salmon, it is delicious served on toasted brioche.

Ingredients

6  Medium free-range eggs

2 tablespoons of single cream or top of the milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

40g/1 ½ oz butter

About 50g/1 ½ oz Inverawe smoked salmon, chopped roughly

1 heaped tablespoon freshly chopped chervil

Method

Lightly beat together the eggs and cream or top of the milk and season with plenty of salt and pepper.

Slowly melt the butter in a saucepan (or small frying pan) over a low heat, and then add the egg mixture.  Stirring constantly, cook over a low heat until still creamy and soft (up to 5 minutes, depending on your pan).

Remove from the heat to arrest the cooking and stir in the salmon and most of the chervil.  Taste and check the seasoning.  Serve in a pile on hot toast.  Sprinkle with the remaining chervil and serve at once.